The latest EU legislation on lowering retinol strength percentages will affect us all. It’s time to get smart on the best retinol alternatives.
Retinol has earned its reputation as a gold-standard skincare ingredient, praised for decades by dermatologists for its role in supporting smoother, clearer, and more radiant skin. So it's no surprise that the announcement of new EU legislation limiting over-the-counter retinol concentrations in early 2024 sparked questions and a fair amount of concern among skincare enthusiasts.
Under the new regulation, which comes into effect on 1 November 2025, all non-prescription facial and neck products sold in the EU will be limited to a maximum of 0.3% retinol (or retinoids). A sell-through period will allow existing products to remain on shelves until 1 May 2027, giving brands time to reformulate and adapt. Many already have.
While this change doesn’t apply to the US and only indirectly impacts the UK (which still mirrors EU cosmetics regulation post-Brexit), the global influence of European skincare, particularly from French pharmaceutical brands, means that reformulated versions of cult-favourite retinol products will soon be widespread.
For consumers, this shift may raise concerns about efficacy, especially for those who rely on high-strength formulas to maintain visible results. But this is precisely where next-generation technologies like the LYMA Laser come into their own. Unlike topical ingredients, the LYMA Laser works at a deeper level to improve skin tone, texture, and firmness. It supports long-term results without compromising skin barrier health or relying on active ingredients subject to regulation.
This regulation may be a turning point, not a setback, for the industry and for your routine. It marks a move toward clinically-backed, barrier-supportive technologies that respect both skin biology and evolving safety standards.
What is retinol?
Retinol is a derivative of Vitamin A and one of the most powerful skin ingredients at our skin-perfecting disposal. Retinol falls within Vitamin A’s family of compounds which includes all retinoid derivatives and provitamin carotenoids.
What does retinol do to your skin?
Retinol does a lot for anti-aging skin and is widely agreed to be the ultimate anti-aging ingredient for fading out age spots and reducing fine lines and wrinkles. These interlinked processes plump skin and erase fine lines and wrinkles, making them fundamental to a good anti-aging skincare regime.
How does retinol work?
- Retinol, a form of Vitamin A, plays a pivotal role in maintaining skin health. It supports the skin’s natural renewal process by encouraging the turnover of surface cells, helping to reveal a smoother, more even-looking complexion.
- By contributing to the maintenance of normal skin, retinol can refine skin texture and visibly improve clarity over time. It also helps reduce the appearance of pores through surface exfoliation and balanced oil regulation.
- While retinol does not “treat” wrinkles or pigmentation, its role in supporting skin structure and barrier function may help soften the visible signs of aging and environmental exposure.
- When used consistently, retinol can help limit moisture loss, supporting hydration and reinforcing the skin’s natural protective barrier.
The best retinol for skin is not reliant on percentages
Whilst, there’s been a long established competitive culture surrounding retinol percentages whereby the best retinol serums are presumed to be those with higher percentages of potency, in fact, scientific evidence demonstrates the opposite. Recent studies show that even low retinol percentages around 0.1% are still highly effective for exfoliation and skin health, without pushing skin’s tolerance to its outer limit into a chronic state of inflammation and redness.
Retinol and Vitamin A complications
The reason behind why the EU is limiting retinol skincare percentages is part of a larger concern for Vitamin A overexposure and the associated adverse health risks of Vitamin A in the bloodstream. Obviously skincare is a minor contributor to any potential Vitamin A overload but it’s being viewed from a cumulative POV, alongside medication and food intake. Foods commonly containing Vitamin A are beef, chicken, fish, eggs and dairy which make up a sizable section of the modern European diet. Carrots, broccoli and green leafy vegetables also contain Vitamin A, though are of a lower concern.
Time to get to know the best retinol alternatives
Even if your all-time favourite retinol serum isn’t being reformulated, skin doctors say it’s wise to know the alternatives to retinol, many of which are superb in their efficacy.
For example, derivatives such as Bakuchiol and Retinol Palmitate induce similar benefits as pure retinol.
Retinyl Palmitate
Chosen by the LYMA science team for its efficacy and skin-compatible profile, patented Retinyl Palmitate12 is a next-generation form of Vitamin A that supports skin renewal with minimal irritation. Unlike traditional high-strength retinol, it delivers visible improvements in skin tone, texture, and clarity at lower concentrations, making it ideal under evolving ingredient regulations.
By supporting collagen integrity and epidermal resilience, Retinyl Palmitate helps maintain the skin’s structural foundation and contributes to a smoother, more even-looking complexion. Its role in preserving the appearance of firmness and elasticity makes it a cornerstone of the LYMA Skincare protocol.
Bakuchiol vs retinol
Bakuchiol is the plant-based derivative currently gaining popularity with skin professionals. Despite bearing no structural resemblance, Bakuchiol acts as a functional analogue to retinol, stimulating the upregulation of collagen in the skin’s surface layers. Bakuchiol possesses none of the astringent nature of retinol and is more suitable for long-term use, making it quite the superior alternative to retinol for sensitive skin. An inclusive skin active for anyone with even hypersensitive skin with well-documented plumping and firming results is why Bakuchiol has been formulated into the world-class LYMA Cream and Serum skincare.
Silybum marianum as a retinol alternative
The cultivation of Silybum marianum as a medicinal plant dates back to over 2000 years ago. However, recent research into its beneficial effects on skin is relatively novel. Its seed oil contains a compound called silymarin, which can be used as an antioxidant for protecting and restoring skin damage, which aims to result in wrinkles and low elasticity. Formulated into LYMA’s skincare, silymarin (the active form of the seed oil) has demonstrated in medical papers, the ability to exhibit anti-collagenase and anti-elastase activity, therefore halting the body’s aging enzymes that break down collagen and elastin in skin.
LYMA Laser is a great alternative to retinol for skin
When it comes to reducing the appearance of wrinkles, the LYMA Laser is already outperforming many of the best retinol serums out there. Treating sagging skin at home can be a challenge, and many over-the-counter retinol creams that claim to transform the appearance of aging skin, fail to deliver results because as an active ingredient, it is hard to formulate and stabilize. Scientific evidence shows that near-infrared low level laser light can maintain healthy collagen levels in a much more intelligent way than topical retinol skincare.
The LYMA Laser has been shown to noticeably improve skin texture, boost skin elasticity and reduce the appearance of wrinkles and sagging skin when used for just 15 minutes daily. The LYMA Laser is able to effectively unlock the genetic master switch of skin’s function to provide the cells with more energy, thereby restoring the cells’ ability to produce elastin, and renewing the skin in the process without damaging the skin on any level. Strengthening and improving skin health rather than stripping it, the LYMA Laser is deemed by doctors and dermatologists as a positive route to glowing, reflective skin.
A unique skin Laser compatible with prescription retinol
“In terms of generic retinol, you can use the LYMA Laser whilst continuing your course and in fact, it should mitigate the sensitivity and inflammatory effects of the retinol,” says Dr Graeme Glass, world leading plastic and craniofacial Surgeon and LYMA Aesthetic Director. What’s more, the LYMA Laser can even be used with much stronger prescription retinol skincare.
“Isotretinoin is a synthetic derivative of retinol which is used for treatment of blemishes and there are many issues with its compatibility to other skincare ingredients but there’s every reason to think that the LYMA Laser could be synergistic alongside the course of isotretinoin.”
The changes in EU legislation on using topical retinol for skin don’t stop us from utilising this brilliant anti-aging skin ingredient but they do get us thinking smarter about the safest, most effective form of it and that can only be a positive thing to save all our skins.
*This statement has not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration. This product is not intended to diagnose, treat, cure or prevent any disease.
